Extreme summer heat brings exceptionally early harvest in France's Champagne region

Workers across in France's Champagne region took advantage of cooler temperatures at dawn on Friday (August 14) to pick grapes in an exceptionally early harvest spurred by this summer's high temperatures.

Harvesters armed with secateurs and buckets worked through the morning before retreating from searing midday heat. 

The official grape-picking season officially began on Aug. 12, as decided by the Champagne Committee (CIVC) the industry's governing body which sets harvest dates based on grape maturity.

Benoit Velut, owner of 'Champagne Jean Velut', said the temperatures France has seen this summer and their impact on his vineyard were "not surprising, yet it's very surprising at the same time because it's happening at an incredible speed and with incredible intensity."

"Not so long ago, we never would have imagined starting the harvest in the first weeks of August", 39-year-old Velut said.

The accelerated ripening of grapes followed a series of heatwaves and droughts this summer, culminating in one of the earliest harvests on record with some producers starting from Aug. 6.

"When I was a child, the harvest was after the start of the school year. So it was during the last week of September or even more towards October", Benoit's father Denis said.

Producers also reported a reduced yield this season, with approximately 30% of the crop lost to spring frost and additional setbacks caused by prolonged drought.

Some grape clusters are notably smaller due to water shortages, which producers expect to reduce the volume of champagne produced this year

"Logistically speaking, we start at sunrise. That's essential both for the grape harvesters and for the grapes themselves," Benoit Velut said. "And then, well, there are the dates too. August holidays don't really exist for winemakers anymore."

To offset reduced production, champagne producers tapped into contingency reserves, which allow the reintroduction of stored wines from previous years to maintain output levels.

CIVC co-president Maxime Toubart said it was important to innovate in the face of climate challenges, including developing new grape varieties and methods of cultivation.

"Today, our ambition is to have a Champagne region that continues to produce bottles," he said.

While winemakers emphasise preserving traditional quality and acidity, they acknowledge potential shifts in the taste and aroma profiles of champagne.

"Since the vineyard is here and will outlive us, it's up to us to adapt," said Benoit Velut.

"Perhaps we need to make our consumers accept that there will be a transition towards champagne profiles that will change a little bit as well."

Camera & Editing: Manuel Ausloos; Production: Elissa Darwish & Manuel Ausloos; Writing: Elissa Darwish/Reuters